Saks at the Shows: Alexander McQueen Spring 2015

Sarah Burton injects Japonaiserie elements into her dark and beautiful vision.

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Alexander McQueen‘s Sarah Burton honored her late mentor once again with a spring collection that harked back to his oft-oriental hints and flourishes. Burton animated her collection with a healthy dose of Japonaiserie, typically rocky territory for designers, but in her hands, the material strayed far from saccharine. This is the McQueen house after all.

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One of the Two Magnificent Orchid Sculptures on the Alexander McQueen Runway

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Alexander McQueen‘s Sarah Burton honored her late mentor once again with a spring collection that harked back to his oft-oriental hints and flourishes. Burton animated her collection with a healthy dose of Japonaiserie, typically rocky territory for designers, but in her hands, the material strayed far from saccharine. This is the McQueen house after all.

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One of the Two Magnificent Orchid Sculptures on the Alexander McQueen Runway

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Matched against leather harness bodices, cutouts of chrysanthemums took on a darkly elegant edge. Any of the sweetness you’d find in a Japonaiserie landscape painting was saved for the skirts, which exploded in clouds of cherry blossom cut-outs.

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Perilous Beauty

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The Eastern elements only helped to enhance the remarkable tailoring at hand. Tops were cut in precise bell-shaped forms, while the pants in the collection, cut to absolute perfection, elongated the legs and fell to the floor in a quasi-suspended flair.

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Some of the Collection’s More Elaborate Pieces Hanging Backstage

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Burton’s use of print this season felt new, at least for her womenswear. The way she played with the magnified chrysanthemums prints on dresses and on capes recalled the brand’s menswear. That’s more of the McQueen man’s territory, and yet, it felt inspired here. Sign that there’s always room to explore, no matter how defined your aesthetic may be.

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A Saks Peek of the Show Line-Up Backstage

Get carried away by dark magic of Alexander McQueen.

 


Saks at the Shows: CHANEL Spring 2015

Karl Lagerfeld stages a feminine protest at the Grand Palais for his latest for CHANEL.

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Karl Lagerfeld Orchestrates a Grand Demonstration in True Fashionable Form

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The eve of a CHANEL show, whether it be resort, haute couture or ready-to-wear, is always a fun mind-scramble. You can’t help but flex a bit of imaginative muscle before Karl Lagerfeld presents at the Grand Palais – cooking up ideas of your own on what he’s going to pull off this time.

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Karl Lagerfeld Orchestrates a Grand Demonstration in True Fashionable Form

Chanel-SS15-RTW-PFW-Jamie-Bochert-Nadja-Bender

The eve of a CHANEL show, whether it be resort, haute couture or ready-to-wear, is always a fun mind-scramble. You can’t help but flex a bit of imaginative muscle before Karl Lagerfeld presents at the Grand Palais – cooking up ideas of your own on what he’s going to pull off this time.

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For Spring, he rocked the house. He wanted his idyllic CHANEL girls to get up in arms. The student, the executive, the banker, the socialite – they all have one thing in common – well, they’re women of course, and its time to rally. So Mr. Lagerfeld staged another one of his elaborate coups, this time in the form of a feminine protest on Boulevard CHANEL.

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“Be Your Own Stylist”. “Boys Should Get Pregnant Too”. “Make Fashion Not War”. This is fashion, by way of Karl Lagerfeld, so when he stages a protest, you need to look at the message within the clothing. There was both fun and empowerment in equal measures here. Just consider the ebullient grandeur of the opening suited look with the lacquered banker pinstripes later in the show.

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As is wont to happen at CHANEL, the accessories were just as covet-worthy as the clothes. There were beautiful sheer gold tights that looked like fairy dust, matched with black and gold oxford with cut-outs and an ankle-strap, whistle necklaces (to rally the masses, no doubt) dyed hippie messenger bags and briefcases, and hands down the coolest eyewear of the season – aviators done the CHANEL way.

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Variegated Floral Bouquets

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The Women of Wall Street

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There were some surprise faces among Mr. Lagerfeld’s roving army of model protestors at the ready-to-wear show – legendary English model Kirsten Owen looked chic and cool in her coat and shorts ensemble, while Gisele Bundchen was the very image of ageless beauty in a tan and white stripe cardigan dress. Both models were spared the albeit fierce makeup treatment, and walked out for their walks bare-faced. That’s feminine power for you.

Let your feminine spirit break free with a little help from CHANEL.

CHANEL Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear Lookbook Photos by Karl Lagerfeld


Saks at the Shows: Emanuel Ungaro Spring / Summer 2015

While everyone else has looked to the 70s this season, Fausto Puglisi tapped into 50s Hollywood glamour.

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Emanuel Ungaro’s Fausto Puglisi went full blown 50s Hollywood glam for spring 2015. We’d say “gangster mol” if it weren’t so upbeat and optimistic.

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Jessica Stam or Celluloid Siren?

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Emanuel Ungaro’s Fausto Puglisi went full blown 50s Hollywood glam for spring 2015. We’d say “gangster mol” if it weren’t so upbeat and optimistic.

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Jessica Stam or Celluloid Siren?

Emanuel-Ungaro-Saks-at-the-shows-spring-2015-PFW-15Emanuel Ungaro made its bread and butter by appealing to party girls and making fun body-hugging garments, so this definitely makes for a bold move on Puglisi’s part, one that paid off. It’s good to see a creative director taking a risk once in a while.

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Who Would’ve Thought Lace and Plaid Would Ever Look So Good Together?

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Fingerless Black Gloves and Fishnet Heels? We Knew There Was a Bad Girl in There Somewhere

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Bold Moves

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While everyone during Fashion Month has been concerned over the 70s, it was nice to see someone taking a different route for a change. This made for an Emanuel Ungaro show to remember.

Be the life of the party in Emanuel Ungaro.

Photos by Ford Leland