Home 2012 February

All Hail Cindy Sherman

Cindy Sherman’s sprawling, hotly anticipated retrospective opened last week at the Museum of Modern Art in New York to legions of adoring friends, fans, and fellow artists (Chuck Close and Blondie’s Debbie Harry were both spotted making the scene at Tuesday night’s opening, as were John Waters, Michael Stipe, Martha Stewart, Kim Cattrall, Molly Ringwald, designer Narciso Rodriguez, and former Marc Jacobs boy-toy Lorenzo Martone). The comprehensive exhibition is a coup both for Sherman and for the museum, which has taken some slack over the past few years for its relatively limited number of exhibitions from mid-career and established female artists. It’s also a must-see for art- and fashion-lovers alike. Sherman emerged in the late-1970s and early-1980s with a now signature approach and aesthetic: she…

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Cindy Sherman’s sprawling, hotly anticipated retrospective opened last week at the Museum of Modern Art in New York to legions of adoring friends, fans, and fellow artists (Chuck Close and Blondie’s Debbie Harry were both spotted making the scene at Tuesday night’s opening, as were John Waters, Michael Stipe, Martha Stewart, Kim Cattrall, Molly Ringwald, designer Narciso Rodriguez, and former Marc Jacobs boy-toy Lorenzo Martone). The comprehensive exhibition is a coup both for Sherman and for the museum, which has taken some slack over the past few years for its relatively limited number of exhibitions from mid-career and established female artists. It’s also a must-see for art- and fashion-lovers alike.

Sherman emerged in the late-1970s and early-1980s with a now signature approach and aesthetic: she takes pictures of herself dressed as different characters and female “types” (think vixen, housewife, ingénue, and other paradigms of stage and screen). Over the years Sherman’s self-styled characters have become stranger and more stirring. Her “Centerfold” series is a highlight at MoMA—intimate self-portraits shot in that classic Playboy wide format but picturing women fully clothed and at their most emotionally vulnerable.

Sherman dons prosthetics as a busty Virgin Mary in a series of photographs based on the ways in which women are portrayed throughout art history; caked-on make-up and luxe kaftans in her recent “Society Portraits,” or “The Real Housewives of Easthampton,” if you will; and vintage Chanel in a new body of work that defies the glam nature of most fashion shoots with Sherman’s decidedly unsexy takes on modeling couture. The performances are Oscar-worthy. The characters are spot-on. And Sherman reaffirms her status as the most influential female artists of the last 50 years.

Cindy Sherman at the Museum of Modern Art through June 11; 11 W. 53rd Street, between Fifth and Sixth Avenues; 212-708-9400; moma.org

Main Image: Cindy Sherman. Untitled #466. 2008. Chromogenic color print, 8′ 6″ x 70″ (259.1 x 177.8 cm). The Museum of Modern Art, New York. Acquired through the generosity of Robert B. Menschel in honor of Jerry I. Speyer. © 2012 Cindy Sherman. For more images, see the gallery at right.


Packing for Milano

If you don’t like travel, I’m not sure I can recommend the fashion industry. You’re constantly chasing shows, trends and designers. On the road, what might normally be a luxury becomes a necessity—if only for temporarily preserving your sanity. As Milan Fashion Week comes to an end, here’s a quick review of what I brought along for the ride… The Uniform Isaia suit. Charvet ties in blue, black and grey with an occasional flash of color. Crocodile belts from Prada (or custom-made). I could get dressed in the dark—as one often does when recovering from the red-eye. Turnbull and Asser Shirt Once you find your shirt, you stick with it. Mine are from Turnbull and Asser, each with my initials woven into the midsection. Every…

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If you don’t like travel, I’m not sure I can recommend the fashion industry. You’re constantly chasing shows, trends and designers. On the road, what might normally be a luxury becomes a necessity—if only for temporarily preserving your sanity. As Milan Fashion Week comes to an end, here’s a quick review of what I brought along for the ride…

The Uniform

Isaia suit. Charvet ties in blue, black and grey with an occasional flash of color. Crocodile belts from Prada (or custom-made). I could get dressed in the dark—as one often does when recovering from the red-eye.

Turnbull and Asser Shirt

Once you find your shirt, you stick with it. Mine are from Turnbull and Asser, each with my initials woven into the midsection. Every shirt has two buttons at the collar to keep it high throughout the day, plus barrel cuffs with the diagonal corner cut.

Wolford Socks

Wolford’s over-the-calf cotton velvet socks are the only ones I own—and they never fall down. Could they cut off your circulation? Well, who am I to judge? The socks come in grey, black, blue and occasionally beige. They stopped producing brown, which is really a trauma.

Piaget Watch

The Altiplano Double Jeu is two watches in one, with a flip-top revealing a hidden second face. I set the top one for where I am and the bottom one for NYC, which really comes in handy for places like India where there are half-hour time differences. And Piaget makes remarkably thin watches to begin with, so even the two-in-one Double Jeu avoids feeling like wrist dumbbells.

Edward Green and John Lobb Shoes

Edward Green crafts a masterful dress shoe. John Lobb makes a more casual suede shoe—my preference for travel days. If it’s a longer trip, I may throw in a pair from Loro Piana for good measure.

iPad and Blackberry

Each has its own finger-pleasing covering—the iPad in its Salvatore Ferragamo sleeve and the BlackBerry with its Valextra crocodile back.


10 Moments in Time

SaksPOV shutterbug Kristen Somody Whalen captures the most amazing moments from New York Fashion Week

I started doing Fashion Week for V Magazine in 2003. It was like boot camp… I had to bully my way into the shows. I did everything from backstage to the front row. The assignment was get in anywhere you can. As a photographer you have to have a thick skin. There are a lot of restrictions for photographers. It’s been nice as the years go on becoming a veteran of fashion week, knowing who people are, what’s important, what’s not. For me one of my most fun aspect of fashion week is that it’s like a reunion of people you haven’t seen in 6 months. You get to watching people grow in the industry: the intern that used to work in the accessories department…

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I started doing Fashion Week for V Magazine in 2003. It was like boot camp… I had to bully my way into the shows. I did everything from backstage to the front row. The assignment was get in anywhere you can.

As a photographer you have to have a thick skin. There are a lot of restrictions for photographers. It’s been nice as the years go on becoming a veteran of fashion week, knowing who people are, what’s important, what’s not. For me one of my most fun aspect of fashion week is that it’s like a reunion of people you haven’t seen in 6 months. You get to watching people grow in the industry: the intern that used to work in the accessories department is now running the magazine. It’s one big happy family.

The most exciting thing for me right now is the fashion on the street. The Manrepeller is one of the most inspiring things of fashion week. She uses her own artistic vision to piece things together that no one would think of. She takes a different spin on it. I find street fashion so inspiring and so creative. For so many years, I was so focused on the runway, but today the runway is on the street. — As told to Sophia Chabbott

Main Image: Pictures of the Day from New York Fashion Week.

All photographs by KSW.


Oh, Yes!

Street Peeper photographer Phil Oh shares some of his favorite shots of all time on SaksPOV

If there’s a fashion show within a 10-mile radius, you’re sure to find a bespectacled chap with silky shoulder length chestnut hair behind a camera in the vicinity, dodging traffic to capture that one perfect, couldn’t-plan-it-if-you-tried shot. Since 2007, Phil Oh has captured some of the most serendipitous fashion moments on the street, subsequently inventing his own unique style that is sought after the world over. Oh’s photographs of celebrities, models, designers and fashion industry titans (and yes, occasionally just style-savvy plebes) have been featured in prestigious publications such as Vogue. With his blog Street Peeper, Phil has been a trailblazer, spawning hundreds of thousands of fans, followers and creating a new platform for which to view fashion, style and culture. Here, Phil Oh shares…

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If there’s a fashion show within a 10-mile radius, you’re sure to find a bespectacled chap with silky shoulder length chestnut hair behind a camera in the vicinity, dodging traffic to capture that one perfect, couldn’t-plan-it-if-you-tried shot. Since 2007, Phil Oh has captured some of the most serendipitous fashion moments on the street, subsequently inventing his own unique style that is sought after the world over. Oh’s photographs of celebrities, models, designers and fashion industry titans (and yes, occasionally just style-savvy plebes) have been featured in prestigious publications such as Vogue. With his blog Street Peeper, Phil has been a trailblazer, spawning hundreds of thousands of fans, followers and creating a new platform for which to view fashion, style and culture.

Here, Phil Oh shares his thoughts on some of his most prized photographs.

Be sure to check out Saks.com for Phil Oh’s look at spring’s must-have handbags as well as well as Saks Fifth Avenue’s Facebook page to enter our It Bag Contest, judged by Phil Oh.


“My nieces love Taylor Swift and when this photo ran on Vogue.com, my sister called and told me how much they loved it.”


“Anna Dello Russo is a style icon and there was a silly moment in Milan when all the photographers gathered around to snap her in her sequined Dolce & Gabbana dress and an awesome cherry headpiece.  She decided to have a bit of fun and turn the tables on us.”


“I really love mixed prints, and I caught this moment at the Marni show in Milan of three ladies all wearing Marni prints from various seasons.”


“This one was a stroke of good timing.  Celestine Cooney, a stylist in London had these balloons from a fashion show on a really windy day, and the colors looked so great with the Stella McCartney citrus print dress.”


“Errr, it’s Yoko Ono!  And she’s looking right at me!  And smiling!”


“How often do you see someone who manages to successfully match colors & prints in her outfit  and her car?”

What’s YOUR favorite Street Peeper image? We want to hear your Point of View!


Saks Hearts Rachel Zoe

We chose our favorite Rachel looks as her new collection hits Saks.com!

Stylist and designer by trade and mom to young Skyler, Rachel Zoe can seamlessly add another title to her impressive portfolio: style icon. Having mastered a multitude of looks from Seventies glam to Bohemian casual — not to mention the drop dead gorgeous red carpet looks for clients such as Anne Hathaway and Eva Mendes, Zoe wants to offer her chic touch to just about everyone. Check out SaksPOV’s favorite Rachel Zoe looks of late. We have one thing to say: so major! Main Image: Rachel Zoe at her Spring/Summer 2012 presentation. Visit Saks.com all week, where Rachel will introduce her collection with a new video every day! (1) Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2012 After Party; (2) Front row at Calvin Klein Collection, Spring 2012….

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Stylist and designer by trade and mom to young Skyler, Rachel Zoe can seamlessly add another title to her impressive portfolio: style icon. Having mastered a multitude of looks from Seventies glam to Bohemian casual — not to mention the drop dead gorgeous red carpet looks for clients such as Anne Hathaway and Eva Mendes, Zoe wants to offer her chic touch to just about everyone. Check out SaksPOV’s favorite Rachel Zoe looks of late. We have one thing to say: so major!

Main Image: Rachel Zoe at her Spring/Summer 2012 presentation.

Visit Saks.com all week, where Rachel will introduce her collection with a new video every day!

(1) Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2012 After Party; (2) Front row at Calvin Klein Collection, Spring 2012. Photographs by Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com.

(3) Marchesa Fall 2012 front row, Photography by Joe Schildhorn/BFAnyc.com; (4) Front row at Lanvin.

(5) DVF post fashion show dinner, Photograph by Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com; (6) Rachel Zoe at Saks Fifth Avenue, Photography by Neil Rasmus/BFAnyc.com


Here are a few looks from Rachel on Saks.com. What are your favorites? We want to hear your POV!


Yumi Takes Europe

Saks.com’s Yumi Shin opts for austere lines countered with quirky accessories to take on Milan and Paris

Vice President and Divisional Merchandise Manager Yumi Shin spends her days scouring the world’s top design houses cultivating unique, wearable and intriguing collections for Saks.com. Yumi is now off to Europe to take in the runways of Milan and then Paris to bring Saks.com buyers the best of the best of fall 2012 fashion. Here, she gives SaksPOV readers a peek at what’s she’ll be wearing in the front row.

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Vice President and Divisional Merchandise Manager Yumi Shin spends her days scouring the world’s top design houses cultivating unique, wearable and intriguing collections for Saks.com. Yumi is now off to Europe to take in the runways of Milan and then Paris to bring Saks.com buyers the best of the best of fall 2012 fashion. Here, she gives SaksPOV readers a peek at what’s she’ll be wearing in the front row.

Jil Sander Dress Maria La Rosa Socks Prada Shoes J Brand Denim Jeans FLorian Necklace


Runway Beauty

SaksPOV uncovers beauty trends from the masters at NYFW

Each season, the runways are about much more than just clothes—they’re also a clear display of upcoming beauty trends, with the world’s top makeup artists working backstage to come up with the looks that will be big several months later.  For this fall and winter the beauty spotlight is on one thing: clear, radiant, not-over-made-up skin. Face First “I think we’re moving away from putting a lot of your skin and then all you see is foundation,” says makeup artist Lucia Pieroni, who created the beauty looks for Vera Wang’s show.  “There are so many products out there that are light. Your skin can look amazing without using layers of foundation.” Pieroni used several products from Cle de Peau Beaute on the models, including Refining…

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Each season, the runways are about much more than just clothes—they’re also a clear display of upcoming beauty trends, with the world’s top makeup artists working backstage to come up with the looks that will be big several months later.  For this fall and winter the beauty spotlight is on one thing: clear, radiant, not-over-made-up skin.

Face First

“I think we’re moving away from putting a lot of your skin and then all you see is foundation,” says makeup artist Lucia Pieroni, who created the beauty looks for Vera Wang’s show.  “There are so many products out there that are light. Your skin can look amazing without using layers of foundation.”

Pieroni used several products from Cle de Peau Beaute on the models, including Refining Fluid Foundation.  She skipped mascara and used a pale lip gloss to keep the look all about flawless, dewy skin.

Bold Eyes

At many shows, that radiant skin was the counterpoint to one bold element, like a strong, black-outlined eye at Marc Jacobs, where Francois Nars used Black Moon eyeliner and Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara from his eponymous line.   At Kimberly Ovitz’s show, makeup artist Gordon Espinet created a look that juxtaposed fresh looking skin with extreme, extra-bold eyebrows.  “It’s about healthy, almost athletic skin and that cool brow,” he explained backstage as he was creating the look.  “It’s about 90% beauty and 10% quirky.  We wanted the girls really simple and beautiful, and then we added a wee bit of theater to it.”

Berry Lips

At Christian Siriano’s show, a similar concept was used, with pale skin and pronounced, deep plum lips.  “We’re keeping the skin very, very clean – nothing on it we don’t have to – and keeping the main focus on the lip,” says Polly Osmond, who created the look.  To achieve similar results at home, it just takes a light tinted foundation (like Clarins Super Restorative Tinted Cream) and a rich dark purple lipstick, like Estee Lauder Pure Color Crystal Lipstick in Plum Fizz.

 


Style / Spectacle

Some thoughts on New York Fashion Week

This is the fourth season for New York Fashion Week at Lincoln Center, whose larger and more numerous venues afford more room for spectacle than Bryant Park. Even so, many brands show elsewhere around the city to build an even more immersive brand experience. Moncler took over Central Park’s Wollman Rink. It was Fashion Week on Ice with 180+ skaters buzzing around in colorful coats. The distance and the eye-numbing cold made it difficult to focus on the clothes—but that was hardly the point. Marc Jacobs continued his tradition of shows at the Armory on 25th Street. The models traipsed out of a Tim Burton-esque paper palace, each wearing gargantuan accessories: fuzzy hats, shawls, and even oversize clothespins. Mr. Jacobs’s theatrical vision recalled nothing so…

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This is the fourth season for New York Fashion Week at Lincoln Center, whose larger and more numerous venues afford more room for spectacle than Bryant Park. Even so, many brands show elsewhere around the city to build an even more immersive brand experience. Moncler took over Central Park’s Wollman Rink. It was Fashion Week on Ice with 180+ skaters buzzing around in colorful coats. The distance and the eye-numbing cold made it difficult to focus on the clothes—but that was hardly the point.

Marc Jacobs continued his tradition of shows at the Armory on 25th Street. The models traipsed out of a Tim Burton-esque paper palace, each wearing gargantuan accessories: fuzzy hats, shawls, and even oversize clothespins. Mr. Jacobs’s theatrical vision recalled nothing so much as Cecil Beaton, the art director that brought Eliza Doolittle to life on stage and screen.

Marc Jacobs has long since proven that he can conjure up some remarkable fashion, but he has entered the pantheon largely due to his ability to master all of the tools of image-building. The most celebrated designers have become art directors and storytellers who can disseminate a unique brand vision through every imaginable medium: not just ready-to-wear, accessories and fragrance but stagecraft, magazine ads, online videos and tweets.

That brings me to my favorite show of New York Fashion Week. Joseph Altuzarra’s presentation wasn’t flashy, but his Fall 2012 Collection was plenty playful. The stars were little discs of color—psychedelic ones in V-formation on sweaters, metallic ones dangling and jangling from belts and hems, printed ones in an electric orange pattern that recalled both Indian saris and Moroccan textiles. Joseph Altuzarra managed to harmonize seemingly incompatible design elements, deftly mixing military details with ladylike charm, demure skirts with audacious side slits, accessible shapes with majestic detailing. There were plenty of bells and whistles to be sure, but they were on the clothes—not the stage.


A Great Investment

Vests are a great way to transition your winter looks into spring. The motorcycle vest from Saks Fifth Avenue’s new 9|15 Collection — named for the date of the store’s original opening, September 15, 1924 — comes in bone and gray and can be worn over turtlenecks today and t-shirts come warmer weather. The 9|15 collection is rife with draped one shoulder sweaters, parachute jackets and sporty trousers. The collection hits Saks.com and Saks Fifth Avenue stores this month.

Left: 9|15 Leather Vest, $550

Vests are a great way to transition your winter looks into spring. The motorcycle vest from Saks Fifth Avenue’s new 9|15 Collection — named for the date of the store’s original opening, September 15, 1924 — comes in bone and gray and can be worn over turtlenecks today and t-shirts come warmer weather. The 9|15 collection is rife with draped one shoulder sweaters, parachute jackets and sporty trousers. The collection hits Saks.com and Saks Fifth Avenue stores this month.

Left: 9|15 Leather Vest, $550


Lin-demonium!

SaksPOV is inspired by the Linderella story of The New York Knicks’ #17 Jeremy Lin

Lincredible! Lintastic!  What can we say?  We’re Linspired by Jeremy Lin’s robust performance on the hard-court at MSG. Eight wins and counting since Lin’s been in the game. A fashionable take on this sports phenomenon… Main Image: The great Jeremy Lin in action

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Lincredible! Lintastic!  What can we say?  We’re Linspired by Jeremy Lin’s robust performance on the hard-court at MSG. Eight wins and counting since Lin’s been in the game. A fashionable take on this sports phenomenon…

Estee Lauder Perfume David Yurman Cuff Links Diane von Furstenburg Dress Guerlain Foundation

Main Image: The great Jeremy Lin in action